Community Spotlight: Lynne’s Solo Trip to Cinque Terre, Italy

I recently returned from an amazing holiday in Northwest Italy, predominantly in Cinque Terre. I was a little apprehensive at first, travelling solo as a woman approaching 60, but once there, it was great. The benefits of travelling alone are that I can do what I want and when I want. I walk at my own pace (which is quite fast, despite having very short legs). I can change my mind about my itinerary (which I did frequently). The only downside is that it takes a bit of getting used to eating dinner in a restaurant, as I felt people were watching me (I find lunchtime is fine). I counteract this by staying in an apartment where I can cook for myself. However, I do find that when one is travelling alone, they tend to speak to other people that they probably wouldn’t if in a couple or a group. I met some interesting people and shared some great time with them.

On to my trip to Italy, I had a vague plan to do all the hikes from town to town. You can do them all in one go, but that is a long walk (probably about 5 hours) and steep in places. Or you can break them up. I did Monterosso to Corniglia (2 paths) one day and Riomaggiore to Corniglia another day.

Day 1
Arrived in Pisa late afternoon. There is a shuttle bus from the airport to Pisa Central Station. I had booked an AIRBNB room to get away early the next day. I booked into my room and walked into central Pisa to explore the sights. It’s about a 25-minute walk, but there is a shuttle bus from the station. There are loads of restaurants, cafes, and gelaterias along the way and around the centre.

Day 2
I couldn’t book into my apartment in La Spezia until later afternoon, so I took a train to Livorno. The trains are good and very cheap (compared with the UK). I downloaded the Trenitalia app and used that throughout my trip. You must make sure you check in on the app before you board the train as this validates the ticket. I left my suitcase in one of the many left luggage depots near the station and walked into the town, a 30-minute walk, or you can take the bus. There is the most amazing indoor food market with foods I had never seen before, great to experience the local delicacies. I then got the train to La Spezia, my base for the next 5 days; my apartment was a 3-minute walk from the train station, which was perfect.

Day 3
I got up reasonably early. My host, who lived in the same building, brought me a breakfast tray. I got the train to Monterosso and began the hike from there to Vernazza (stop for a snack) and then on to Corniglia. The hike up from Monterosso has a lot of steps, but you can take your time. (I think it is a little easier starting in Vernazza as the climb isn’t quite so steep). I would suggest starting early in the morning or late afternoon, as the paths get busy and you can be continually stopping to let people coming the other way pass. I then continued to Corniglia, which is a little bit easier but still not ideal if you are unfit. In Corniglia, there are beautiful little cobbled streets and an amazing Gelateria, where I had a Lemon and Basil ice cream, which was delicious.

Day 4
It was drizzly, so I didn’t want to go hiking in the hills. I put on my waterproof jacket and explored La Spezia and its museums and castle. It is one of the main military ports, and you can walk for miles. Cruise ships often stop here for the day, and the town gets busy, but most of the visitors go on to Cinque Terre. There are some nice shops and restaurants along the main street of La Spezia.

Day 5
Started early today, got the bus to Portovenere (2.50 Euro each way), which is a beautiful little port. As I got there early, there was hardly anyone around, and I sat outside a café and had breakfast. Then I got the first ferry (10 am) to Palmeria Island; it takes about 5 minutes on the ferry. I then hiked round the Island, which is just over 6 km. It is an intermediate hike, but I would recommend sturdy hiking shoes or boots. The views on this walk are simply stunning, and it is much quieter than the hikes in Cinque Terre. On return to Portovenere, I sat and had lunch in the harbour overlooking the Island after my walk and then hiked up the back of the castle to a beautiful viewpoint. This was my favourite part of the trip.

Day 6
I had a lazy morning. In the afternoon, I went to Riomaggiore. From there, I hiked to Manarola, stopped for pizza, and then on to Corniglia. The hike up from Riomaggiore to Manarola is very short and only takes about an hour. However, it is very steep, and as soon as you reach the top, there is a steep hike down the other side of the hill. I was a little worried as just after I started walking, there was a thunderstorm; luckily, apart from a few spots of rain, it stayed dry. The second part of the walk from Manarola is simply beautiful. There is a climb but not as steep, and then when you finally reach the top, you walk through the olive terraces with amazing sea views. There is even a bar to quench your thirst as you walk through the terraces. A lot of this hike has no cover, so a hat is essential in hot weather.

Day 7
My last day, and I left the apartment with the intention of dropping off my bags in Pisa (the left luggage in Pisa station is great) and then going on to Florence. However, I changed my mind and decided to get the train to Lucca as it was only 27 minutes on the train. It was a beautiful little town with some lovely parks and buildings. In the middle is Piazza Anfiteatro, which is a circular piazza with restaurants all the way round, and there was a male choir serenading the visitors. I got back to Pisa, booked into my room, and then went back to the centre of Pisa via the shops. I walked along the city wall, which is about 3 km and goes from the centre round the city and ends near the river. The area at the end has some amazing restaurants and gelateria. I love tiramisu and found a shop that sold 54 different flavours; I had the original, why spoil a good thing!

Heading Home
The last night there were thunderstorms, and the weather was awful this morning, so much so that there were several flights delayed. Pisa airport is just not prepared for a lot of people, and there are very few facilities, so eat before you go. The café in Pisa station does surprisingly good coffee and pastries.

I hope I haven’t bored you with my trip. I am now planning my next trips, I have 3 weeks in the Dordogne in June, hiking the Pembrokeshire coastal path in August and a huge list of places I want to visit, e.g. Vietnam and Cambodia. If you are planning a trip to Cinque Terre and want more information, please contact me HERE or via the Freebird Club Community facebook group. 

Thank you Lynne for sharing details of your trip with us!